instructions for installing PVC windows
Aspectmontage PVC How to window replacement Boston do not require expensive maintenance, but only if competent installation is carried out, taking into account weather and technological nuances. Incorrect installation leads to condensation, black spots of mold, frost, rattling ebb, in the worst case, to cracking of the glass.
This article is useful for those who want to do a step-by-step installation of plastic windows with their own hands or control the work of the masters.
Basic installation principles
accounting for temperature deformations of materials and parts (important for the climate of Yaroslavl);
reliable fixation of the window frame;
tightness of the mounting seam (the junction of the frame and the opening).
plastic window design
There are three main elements:
The frame is the supporting part of the structure. Inside there is a strong profile - the base, which can be plastic and metal (in the latter case, the window is called reinforced). The space around the profile is divided into sections (chambers). There can be two of them (two-chamber profile), 3, 4, maximum 7. The more, the more different and warmer the PVC product.
Double- glazed window - consists of 2, 3 or more glasses. The space between 2 glasses is called a chamber (there can be at least 2 of them). The air in the chambers does not let in noise and cold. Chambers can be filled with inert gas - it copes better with heat saving and noise.
The double-glazed window is held inside the profile with the help of a glazing bead - a flexible plastic strip.
Hardware is a set of locking mechanisms, handles and other elements necessary for locking and unlocking the doors.
The movable part of a window unit is called a sash . It can be swivel or tilt-and-turn. At the junction of the flaps , seals are laid - rubber, rubber or silicone tapes necessary for hermetic closing.
The blind (non-opening) part can be divided into sections by imposts - vertical plastic posts.
The window structure stands on a support profile - a PVC support that separates the lower frame and the wall part. Prevents the formation of "cold bridges". Reduces the risk of condensation.
Step by step installation
Consists of the following steps:
dismantling of old elements;
installation of ebbs;
window sill installation;
final stage and quality control.
The space is measured from the inside and outside, in height, width, diagonal.
Width and length are measured in several places, as the wall surfaces are not perfectly flat. The minimum value is taken as the final value.
If the opening from the outside is smaller than from the side of the room, then it is “with a quarter”. This is the name of the protrusion of the wall from the side of the street, which keeps the double-glazed window from falling out. The name appeared because of the width of 6.5 cm, equal to ¼ of a brick. For such houses, different measurement rules apply.
Installation with the removal of the double-glazed window (using anchors or dowels)
The technology for installing plastic windows with the extraction of a double-glazed window is chosen when installing overall windows with an area of 4 sq. m.
The essence of the technology is that the frame is drilled through, and its internal bearing profile is attached to the wall. Anchors and dowels are used as fasteners.
Pick a fastener.
Fasteners are selected taking into account the wall material, their strength:
fastener name When to use
Anchor dowels - expansion metal For houses and buildings: concrete, expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete, natural stone, brick (vertical voids are allowed)
Frame dowels - plastic For building structures with an increased aggressive environment, when the risk of corrosion of internal elements is especially high
Plastic dowels (with locking screw) For houses made of bricks (including those with vertical voids), lightweight concrete, wood, hollow blocks and other materials with a minimum compressive strength
Iron screw for concrete Self-tapping screw with uneven thread for working on concrete bases. Provides secure fastening without loosening
Remove the shutters and take out the double-glazed window.
To remove the sashes and remove the double-glazed window, use ordinary pliers:
remove decorative caps from the canopy;
open the sash;
squeeze out the stem (metal rod inside the loop) from above and below;
mark the glazing beads so as not to confuse when returning to the place;
remove the vertical glazing beads (use a "shoe knife");
remove the horizontal glazing beads (carefully click out of the grooves);
remove the double-glazed window from the frame.
If the house is a quarter, before starting installation, glue PSUL tape around the perimeter of the profile - a vapor-permeable sealing tape for self-ventilation of plastic.
Fix the frame, align its position horizontally / vertically.
Use mounting wedges and blocks. The design will be based on them during the installation process. Slopes, if available, can be compensated for with support blocks made of plastic or wood. Acceptable deviations of the wall opening from the vertical / horizontal - no more than 4 mm per 1 meter, frame deviations - no more than 1.5 per 1 meter.
Attach window block:
on the inner surface of the frame, mark the location of the fasteners;
make markings on the surfaces to which the box will be attached;
select a drill for an electric drill according to the diameter of the anchor bolt;
make holes in the profile according to the markup;
take a puncher or drill, make holes in the walls. Set the hammer drill to "no impact" mode if it is not a concrete surface.
The recommended distance between adjacent anchors is 60-70 cm.
We introduce the anchor into a concrete wall to a depth of 40 mm, into a stone (made of natural stone) - from 50 mm, from lightweight concrete - from 60 mm.
Start fastening from the bottom of the structure. Insert the anchor, but do not tighten it, but first check the vertical / horizontal position of the product. Perform similar actions in the middle and upper parts of the frame. After making sure that the box is level, tighten the anchors until they stop. If a deviation occurs in the process, remove the fasteners and align the window frame again.
Put plugs on the fasteners if the fasteners "gone into the frame". Remove mounting wedges if used. Assemble the block in the reverse order: insert the double-glazed window, install the glazing beads, tap with a rubber mallet so that the glazing beads are firmly pressed against the glass. Please note that black rubber may leave marks on white plastic.
Lay the mounting seam.
The assembly seam has three layers:
external vapor-permeable - PSUL tape;
central - polyurethane foam with a heat-insulating effect;
internal vapor barrier - tape or mastic.
Such a structure does not allow moisture and vapor to penetrate from the room into the seam and does not allow cold and moisture to pass from the street into the room. The seam is ventilated from the side of the street: all the moisture accumulated in it goes outside, and not inside the room.
Stick the PSUL tape before installing the frame. Don't allow creases. Plaster and other compounds should not be applied to the tape.
choose foam taking into account the temperature outside: see the instructions for use on aerosols;
before applying the material, moisten the surfaces or walk with a primer (the rule does not apply if it is minus outside);
apply foam in a continuous line, do not leave voids, gaps;
do not cut off excess foam from the outside;
cut off the excess inside, if a vapor barrier is provided;
if the gap between the frame and the walls is very large, apply the foam in layers, each time waiting for the previous layer to polymerize.
From the side of the room, stick the vapor barrier tape over the resulting seam, remembering to overlap in the corners.
Install a drain.
This must be done immediately to prevent rainwater and dirt from entering the installation space:
stick a vapor-permeable diffuse tape on the bottom seam from the side of the street;
lay the sealing tape over the substitution profile from the street side;
fasten the ebb with screws to the substitution profile;
for sealing joints, sealing, use silicone or mastic.
Install a window sill.
Work begins after the polymerization of the seam. Cut a window sill of the desired size from a PVC sheet (use a jigsaw or a grinder). Optimal dimensions: front protrusion - at least 1-5 cm, but not more than 1/3 of the radiator outlet, side protrusions - 3-7 cm.
Seal the free space under the windowsill with foam. To prevent it from rising during the expansion of polyurethane, place a load on the surface.
At the last stage of installation, silicone sealant is used to close the gaps between the mating surfaces.
Installation of the frame without removing the double-glazed window (on anchor plates)
The block is mounted on anchor plates. One part of the plate is fixed on the profile, the second - in the wall. The angle of the anchor plate can be selected according to the size of the joint. Fastening to the wall is carried out at least in two points, using dowels with locking screws.
Benefits of using anchor plates:
the integrity of the frame is not violated: the profile does not need to be drilled;
there are special rotary plates for fastening windows of complex configurations (curving, triangular, polygonal);
the optimal type of fasteners for houses of the P-44 type of old construction, when the owners themselves do not know what the walls are made of, whether there are voids inside, whether there are other difficulties that prevent installation on anchor dowels.
The method is not suitable for installing window panels with an area of more than 4 sq.m. The plate may not support the weight of the structure.
Plate fastening rules:
plates along the perimeter are located no closer than 1 m;
indent from the corner no more than 25 cm;
first of all, the central plate is attached exactly in the middle of the frame;
use self-tapping screws with a drill (marked "for metal");
you need a gap between the profile and the wall within 2-3.5 cm. If less, form recesses for the plates in the slopes.
insert the frame, align the position with wedges, blocks, building level;
fix the plates in the opening: for work on a brick, concrete base, take dowels 6x40 in size, wooden surfaces hold PVC structures well on 4.2x45 self-tapping screws;
fasten the plates in sequence: start from the lower left corner, then move to the right. Next, proceed to the middle and top fasteners.
The final stage is the installation of elements that improve aesthetics and functionality. This includes:
decorative slopes: they can be made of sandwich panels in the color of the profile or in the form of a layer of gypsum plaster (can be painted);
flashing - a decorative element for masking the seam;
intake ventilation valve: for continuous natural ventilation of the room.
When is the best time to install?
The peak of appeals to the Boston company for the installation of PVC windows falls on the warm season. Winter installation imposes additional difficulties. It is more difficult to leave the opening unprotected for a long time. It is required to carefully select foam, other materials that reveal their characteristics under certain conditions.
There are advantages to replacing windows in the winter. You can immediately detect defects (freezing, condensate). During the cold season, there are fewer applications for installation and you do not have to wait long for your turn. Even in winter, there are promotions and discounts for installation, especially when ordering several designs.